James Cole's experience on an AmaWaterways Mekong river cruise

17th August 2024

Ho Chi Minh City

We were greeted by an AmaWaterways representative and taken via luxury coach to the Sofitel Hotel in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City. Here, we met our cruise manager, Tung, who gave us an overview of what the next 16 days had in store. We didn’t realise at this stage how influential Tung would be in making this holiday our best ever!

The main tours tended to be in the morning, with a leisurely breakfast at the hotel or on board the ship. We would be off the ship with our guide between 08:30 and 09:00 to discover the amazing sights, cultural experiences and vistas of the surrounding areas for our stop that day.

18th August 2024

Our first sightseeing tour was of the Independence Palace in Ho Chi Minh City, welcomed by some local music and a tour round this historical building that has hosted foreign presidents and leaders, contains the Vietnam War Rooms and gave us an initial feel of what life was like during the Vietnam war.

Then it was on to the Vietnam War Remnants Museum, which contains some of the military equipment used by the US in the war, including helicopters, planes, tanks, and other munitions. Inside was the Vietnamese perspective of the war; some uncensored pictures, diaries and acts of atrocities that we can only hope to have learned from. It was a brutal experience, however I came out even more grateful for the life, freedoms and peaceful country we live in.

Then we had a four-course lunch at a real Vietnamese restaurant. 

In the afternoon, we took a drive out to the Cu Chi Tunnels, the underground home of the Viet Cong during the Vietnam War. A labyrinth of over 200km of sophisticated tunnels were built by hand during the war, containing kitchens, sleeping quarters and even hospitals. The scale, innovation and ingenuity is staggering. We got to go through 60m of tunnels (on a voluntary basis), which had been widened and heighted by 20 cm to 30 cm. They were still very tight!

19th August 2024

The next morning, we visited the famous Ben Thanh market, where the stall holders enjoyed some friendly haggling. It felt very safe there and there was a wide mix of items including bags, clothing and fresh produce. 

Then it was finally time to board AmaDara. Of course AmaWaterways made this transition super easy for us; we just tagged our bags up in the hotel room and then next time we saw them was in our room on the ship.

Each day we would have breakfast, lunch, and dinner in the onboard restaurant. Breakfast and lunch tended to be buffet style with plenty of choice of quality food. We were able to choose between tasty and varied local dishes or more westernised foods, depending on what we fancied.

Makara (from Cambodia), the Restaurant Manager, was exceptional and looked after us exceptionally well during the week on board. Our waitress, Sophea (also from Cambodia), couldn’t have done more for us. She always greeted us with a smile and shared conversation about our day’s experience. There were generally just very nice people to be with.

20th August 2024

Our first experience was to explore one of the Mekong’s tributaries by tender boat. We headed to Dong Hoa Hiep, where we saw locals making rice paper, snake whisky (I was glad to be a non-drinker) and some other sweets and snacks. It was also a place where we could buy some locally made products. Of course I bought a bottle of snake whisky as a present for someone, and we also purchased some amazing local oil paintings—even meeting the artist too.

We then moored further upstream and went on a short walk through a small village to visit Kiet House (UNESCO-Asia Pacific Heritage listed), one of the historic houses in the delta area. It’s a beautiful example of traditional Vietnamese architecture with ornate carvings. As beautiful as the house and gardens were to explore, the short walk through the village gave you your first close up of rural life on the Mekong.

Travelling and exploring by river really does give you a great feel for the local culture. Some sights were humbling, some were inspiring, but one thing that stood out strongly about the Vietnamese people was how happy and content they seemed—genuinely welcoming, hospitable, and very family-oriented.

In the afternoon, we took the tender to the Cao Dai Temple to learn more about the fascinating, multifaceted religion that is Caodaism—a mixture of Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism. Symbolism filled every corner of the temple, from the colours to the statues and carvings, all expertly explained by our local Vietnamese guide.

Then it was on to a local market, where we walked the full length of the riverside market in Sa Dec. It was an amazing, colourful display of all sorts of fresh produce. The Vietnamese have a varied diet when it comes to meat; they eat chicken, snake (sliding chicken), frogs (jumping chicken), scorpions (stinging chicken)—you get the idea. Thankfully, all of our meals were prepared under the watchful eye of our culinary experts aboard AmaDara.

Seeing locals selling to locals and experiencing the local vibe was one of my favourite moments of the entire trip. It felt surreal to be immersed in such a different culture, watching people go about their daily shopping—happy, content, and friendly towards us.

21st August 2024

Back on the road again, this time Olivia and I ventured to the Tien Bien Nature Reserve, travelling through the rice field-laden Chau Doc countryside.

Another wonderful experience awaited us, including two boat trips. The first was on a canoe for two, paddled by a local Vietnamese guide through the tranquil waters of the nature reserve, where we saw a variety of flowers, birds, and other wildlife. The next boat trip was in a small group on a traditional Vietnamese speedboat, taking us to another part of the nature reserve. This included a 120-foot-high platform, which, once scaled, offered us the most spectacular vistas of the wider landscape.

The other tour option, which my wife and youngest daughter took part in, was a rickshaw ride through the village of Tan Chau. My four-year-old daughter giggled her way through the streets, along with other passengers enjoying the excitement of the ride. The sights and the breeze brought joy to everyone’s faces! Locals came out from their homes and shops to wave and greet as they made their way to the local silk and rattan weaving workshops, where products could be purchased at very reasonable prices. 

The tour ended with a short walk along a narrow, winding path that led through local houses, nestled between the town and the river. The noise faded away, and you were left walking quietly among local homes, with families stopping to wave, smile, and nod as they went about their daily lives.

Then it was back to the ship for a pleasant afternoon’s sailing, as we cruised from Vietnam to the Cambodian Mekong, passing through the border checkpoint.

This gave us some time to relax and explore AmaDara. Sailing the Mekong from August to April each year since 2009, the ship’s design reflects the style of the region. The service onboard was fantastic, with the crew quickly learning everyone’s names and preferences. Even the standard accommodation was much more spacious than what we were used to on European river ships, and AmaDara felt roomy in the public areas too.

22nd August 2024

We arrived in Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, staying moored in the heart of the city for two nights. The central location allowed us to easily and safely explore on our own, while remaining cautious as you would in any major city in the world.

A short walk away was the Night Market, perfect for a stroll along the riverside or perhaps a quick brew in one of the many welcoming local coffee shops.

Our first escorted excursion in Phnom Penh was to the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, a stunning display of traditional Cambodian architecture and temples, quite literally fit for a king. The King was in residence during our visit, although we didn’t catch sight of him. The Silver Pagoda housed a 199 lb solid gold Cambodian Buddha, encrusted with over 2,000 diamonds. Even the floor was made up of 5,000 solid silver tiles—each one gently springing underfoot as we made our way around the sacred space.

In the afternoon, we visited one of the most difficult sites of the trip: the Choeung Ek Genocidal Centre, also known as The Killing Fields. It is one of many such sites around Cambodia from the Pol Pot regime, during which two million of the country’s seven million people were murdered over a four-year period. The targets were anyone seen as educated, sometimes as little as owning a pair of glasses or having books in the house was enough evidence. It was a chilling reminder of the darkest sides of humanity. I left feeling deeply upset, angry, and ashamed that the human race is capable of such atrocities.

We also visited the S-21 prison camp, one of several around Cambodia, where high-value prisoners were held and tortured. Of the many thousands who died in these horrific places, only seven survived, and just two of them are still alive today. We were incredibly fortunate to meet one of the survivors, Bou Meng. I will always treasure the signed copy of his book that he gave me.

In the evening, AmaWaterways brought on board a traditional Khmer dance troupe from a local dance school. Their performance showcased the intricate use of hands and symbolism in royal dances, along with stories told through movement. We saw examples of both royal and rural dances, each reflecting the rich cultural heritage of Cambodia.

23rd August 2024

A more spiritual and enlightening day saw us visit Oudong, the largest monastery in Cambodia.

Our first stop was the Vipassana Dhurak Buddhist Centre, a breathtaking collection of religious buildings and gardens, where we were privileged to receive a Buddhist blessing from two monks draped in saffron robes. The blessing involved several chants and songs, culminating in a gentle shower of fresh jasmine flower buds picked from the monastery gardens. It was a profoundly moving experience that will stay with us forever.

With 97% of Cambodians practising Buddhism, this was a true insight into the spiritual heart of the country.

We also climbed to the top of Ponhea Leu, which overlooks the monastery and the surrounding countryside, including rice fields glistening in the sun—offering us another great glimpse into the daily lives of the Cambodian people and the rural landscape.

Our journey continued with a ride in a more traditional Cambodian mode of transport: the ox cart. In pairs, we were seated in carts pulled by two oxen, guided by a local through a nearby village. Many of these rural communities still rely on oxen to transport people and goods to market, and it was a fascinating step back in time.

After returning to the ship for lunch, another mode of transport awaited us in the afternoon. Split into groups of four, we set off on tuk-tuks from the ship, ours driven by the very competitive Apollo. A casual comment about wanting to get ahead of the others sent him racing through the bustling streets of Phnom Penh, skilfully dodging the countless scooters and navigating the organised chaos.

24th August 2024

We moved on from Phnom Penh, docking at Oknha Tey Silk Island—a stop filled with joy and happiness. We were privileged to visit a local primary school that AmaWaterways has significantly supported over the past few years.

Given the shortage of teachers in Cambodia—a profession decimated during the Pol Pot regime—finding educators outside the main cities and suburbs is particularly challenging, especially with such low pay. A big shout out to AmaWaterways, who have provided ongoing financial support to this school, along with substantial amounts of equipment.

To say the children were pleased to see us and receive our modest offerings of a few notepads, pencils, and workbooks would be an understatement. They were absolutely delightful, singing to us and displaying exceptional behaviour, gratitude, and politeness. Their smiling faces lit up the room! It was heartwarming to think we might have met some future teachers, industry leaders, or public servants being educated there—an experience we will never forget.

Next, we visited a traditional silk farm, where we were guided through the entire process from start to finish. It was truly mesmerising to witness the cultivation and weaving of silk. The craftsmanship was remarkable, and we couldn't resist purchasing some of the locally produced scarves, ties, and clothing.

In the evening on board, we were treated to a fun and interactive “Cambodia’s Got Talent” show, with wife Heather and daughter Lilli serving as two of the judges. The different ship departments competed against each other, with housekeeping emerging as the winners. It was a fantastic show put on by the crew.

Entertainment on a river cruise ship is usually quite casual, but DJ and musician John kept us entertained before and after dinner, interspersed with performances from local talent.

25th August 2024

A new day meant another adventure, and we were off to visit Angkor Ban—one of the few villages not destroyed by the Khmer Rouge. It was yet another fantastic opportunity to gain insight into the culture of the Cambodian people.

We were honoured to be invited into the home of a local resident, where we witnessed how life unfolds in the village. A very proud lady lived in a modest home, but like the rest of the residents in Angkor Ban, she appeared genuinely happy and content with what she had. Our knowledgeable guide explained the finer functional details of the houses' architecture and the traditional methods used to stay protected and cool—a truly humbling experience.

In the afternoon, we moved on to Kampong Siem, where we explored several Buddha temples and heard local legends, including the captivating tale of the race between the men and women of the town to build the tallest hill!

26th August 2024

It was time to bid farewell to the fantastic crew on the AmaDara. We were certainly going to miss them! However, the next part of our journey awaited, so we boarded our executive coach and set off for Siem Reap.

We arrived at the stunning Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort, where we would spend the next two nights in our spacious rooms, complete with breakfast and dinner included.

After a quick change, we headed out to explore the truly amazing Nokor Thom temple in the jungle. This site served as inspiration for the video game Temple Run and the film Tomb Raider, starring Angelina Jolie. It’s hard to imagine 500 to 600-year-old trees growing through the ruins of this famous temple, with vivid green moss clinging to the stones. The setting truly felt like stepping into the shoes of an explorer uncovering ancient ruins for the first time. Needless to say, it was an experience we will never forget.

27th August 2024

They say the early bird catches the worm, and that was certainly the case when our alarm clocks went off at 04:00 to ensure we saw the Eighth Wonder of the World and the world’s largest religious structure, Angkor Wat. Was it worth it? Absolutely. It was a truly remarkable and breathtaking experience that will live long in the memory.

We had ample time to photograph the 500-acre site from various angles and were guided through the history of its architectural brilliance. Afterwards, we returned to the hotel for breakfast and a bit of rest before heading out (just my dad and me) for a round of golf at the local championship course. It was, without a doubt, the hottest round of golf I have ever played!

To round off the day, we enjoyed a private performance by local musicians and dancers, followed by a lovely meal at the hotel.

28th August 2024

The next morning, we set off for the fascinating temple of Angkor Thom, another UNESCO World Heritage Site dating back to the 12th century. The vast carvings tell detailed stories of what life was like in ancient times under the rule of King Jayavarman VII.

In the afternoon, we relaxed by the expansive pool back at the hotel before transferring to the airport for a short flight to Hanoi, where yet another adventure awaited us.

I should mention that we took full advantage of the add-ons AmaWaterways offered both pre- and post-cruise to make the most of our visit to this part of the world. The cruise itself was seven nights, but we added two nights pre-cruise in Ho Chi Minh City, two nights in Siem Reap, and four additional nights in Hanoi (including one night on a boat in HaLong Bay)—making a total of 15 nights or 16 days.

29th August 2024

We had a leisurely start to the day with our new guide, Rose, who took us on a tour of Hanoi. Our itinerary included the Presidential Palace, the tomb of Ho Chi Minh, the over 1,000-year-old university, and the Temple of Literature (as featured on Vietnamese banknotes).

We also visited the rather grim Hoa Lo Prison, colloquially known as the Hanoi Hilton, infamous for its association with the plight of US prisoners of war during the Vietnam War. The prisoners endured extreme torture and malnutrition, serving as a sobering reminder of the atrocities of war.

To lighten the mood, we then embarked on individual rickshaw rides around the cosmopolitan city of Hanoi, known for its French colonial architecture, high-end shops, and prestigious Western cars. Despite the presence of thousands of scooters at every junction, we quickly adapted to the local traffic system—”go on green, go on amber, still go on red”. Initially daunting, the organised chaos of Hanoi’s traffic soon became manageable.

More fun followed with a walk through a local market before attending a performance at the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre. The show was a unique and entertaining spectacle.

AmaWaterways continued to impress with their surprises throughout our stay. They consistently provided clear information about the next day's activities, meeting times, and expectations, which were regularly exceeded. Nothing was too much trouble for Tung and his team of guides.

The service was brilliant, delivered by knowledgeable, humorous, and engaging people.

30th August 2024

It was time for a break from Hanoi as we settled back into our executive coach en route to HaLong Bay, renowned for its emerald waters and thousands of towering limestone islands topped by rainforests. We would be staying the night on a small cruise ship and exploring some of the islands in the archipelago.

But first, we made a stop for some serious shopping, visiting a pearl farm to see how pearls are cultured.

Upon reaching our overnight vessel, we checked into our spacious rooms and set sail for yet more enriching experiences.

Our first adventure was a climb to the top of one of the islands, followed by a swim in the crystal-clear waters. Next, we boarded a gondola on another island, which took us through a cave and into a stunning lagoon surrounded by monkeys and rainforest-clad cliff sides.

The final activity of the day took place back on deck, where we learned how to make the perfect Vietnamese spring roll while watching the sun set over the islands of HaLong Bay—a majestic end to a fantastic day.

31st August 2024

An early rise allowed us to beat the crowds to the caves of Hang Sung Sot, another worthwhile trip with our guide, Rose, including some breathtaking views across the bay.

Our driver was waiting to take us back to Hanoi for the final stop on our Vietnamese and Cambodian adventure. On the way, we made our last stop at a Humanitarian Centre for locally produced goods. Many of the items sold there were made by local people who had been disabled during the Vietnam War. The local treasures were of wonderfully high quality! We even considered shipping a massive 3m Buddha statue to Bolton, UK—perhaps next time! It was another fantastic cause supported by AmaWaterways.

Back at the Sofitel Metropole in Hanoi, we reflected on what a magnificent holiday we had enjoyed—undoubtedly the best ever. We packed up for the final time, ready for our flight back to the UK via Hong Kong. I have been fortunate to travel extensively over the past 20 years, but this experience is undoubtedly the pinnacle of my travels to date.

I wholeheartedly recommend the full experience to you.

1st September 2024

Breakfast at the hotel restaurant was amazing—truly excellent food. After a refreshing dip in the pool, we enjoyed one last meal at a local restaurant for lunch, picked up a couple of extra bags for all our souvenirs, and, in the words of Porky Pig, “Th-th-th-th-th..that’s all folks!”

Well, apart from the 13-hour flight back to the UK, which, surprisingly, went by quite quickly.

As a final note, while the cruise was fantastic, the hotels were exceptional (especially in Siem Reap and Hanoi), and the overnight boat trip in HaLong Bay was special, it was the people who truly stood out as the stars of the show.

Tung, our Cruise Manager, was with us from start to finish. He was absolutely wonderful—caring, attentive, and could not do enough for us. We formed a special bond with him, and our paths will undoubtedly cross again.

The crew on the ship were fantastic, as were all of our guides—first in Vietnam, then through Cambodia, and finally back in Vietnam. Because they were with us for several days at a time, we got to know them personally, bonded with them, and they made the experience truly special.

I travelled with my wife Heather, our two daughters Lilli (4) and Olivia (19), along with my parents and a group of Panache Cruises customers, on this special Founders-hosted experience.

Have a look on the next page for the full itinerary.