Seeing the Arctic for the First Time
I sailed on the MS Trollfjord from Oslo to Tromsø with Hurtigruten, and the trip was full of unexpected moments. The Trollfjord isn’t flashy or overwhelming, and there’s no pressure to explore every corner of the ship. The real stories came not from onboard activities, but from the constantly changing scenery we sailed through.
We spent six nights on board, and these were some of my favourite highlights:
1 – Embarking in Oslo
This was such an easy process. When I booked, Hurtigruten explained that it was simple to take the train from the airport to the city centre, and that the ship would be docked just across from the station. I’ll admit, I was doubtful — but I didn’t need to be.
After a short train journey, we stepped out of Oslo Central Station and immediately saw the Trollfjord docked right in the heart of the city. Its position makes quite an entrance, with beautiful views of the opera house and the surrounding harbour.
On our way to the ship, we passed the floating sauna boats — they looked fantastic, but instead of trying a local hot-cold plunge, we went in search of the Christmas markets. Many of Oslo’s main sights, including the Parliament building and the Royal Palace, are only moments away from the ship.
2 – Crossing the Arctic Circle
Every cruise line has its own tradition for crossing the Arctic Circle. Hurtigruten’s involves calling upon the Norse god of the sea, Njörðr, and “sacrificing” passengers by pouring icy water down their necks to ensure a safe passage into the Arctic. It’s exactly as chilly as it sounds — and surprisingly fun.
The change in weather was almost instant. After a few celebratory blasts of the horn and a bright spotlight shining onto the Circle Globe on Vikingen Island, snow began to fall around us. It felt almost magical. The crew treated the moment as if it was their first time, which made the experience even more special.
From that point on, it was unmistakably the Arctic. The scenery became steeper and more dramatic, snow reached further down the mountainsides, and the small villages we visited looked like they had been dusted with powdered sugar. The temperature definitely dropped a few notches, too.
3 – Sea Eagle RIB Boat Safari Excursion
We didn’t do many excursions because most ports were easy to explore on our own, but the Sea Eagle RIB Safari was one I had heard a lot about — and I’m so glad we booked it as soon as we boarded.
After a short walk to the local excursion shop, we were fitted with thick insulated suits, gloves, and goggles. By the time we were fully kitted up, we could barely move. Then we boarded the RIB boats and headed out.
Our guide was brilliant — full of local knowledge and stories about the sea eagles. He brought along pieces of fish to throw into the water, giving us perfect photo opportunities as the birds swooped down. The surrounding scenery was astonishing; it felt like we’d left civilisation behind and entered the true Arctic.
Watching a convocation of eagles glide overhead and dive into the water for fish was something I could have watched all day… if it hadn’t been so cold.
Looking back, what stayed with me most wasn’t one single moment, but the feeling of moving slowly up the coastline — watching the landscapes shift, the weather change, and tiny villages appear and disappear again. The Trollfjord gave me time to take things in at my own pace, without the rush that usually comes with travelling. I stepped off the ship in Tromsø feeling calmer, colder, and quietly grateful for a week that unfolded so naturally.
