A week with the polar experts

Having sailed with Quark previously to Svalbard I was so excited to learn that I would experience them again, this time on an adventure to Northeast Greenland sailing on their ship Ocean Explorer. 

Quark is an expedition cruise company, Polar regions are all they do and are specialists in. They have some of the best expedition leaders and teams in the industry and often see them on various ships over the seasons. They currently have four ships in their fleet: Ultramarine, World Voyager, World Explorer and Ocean Explorer. Depending on the ship and destination you can experience Sea Kayaking, Paddle boarding, camping under the stars and even a helicopter on Ultra Marine!  

This destination is not easy to get to, which is certainly an appeal for those wanting to feel like a true explorer. A flight from London to Reykjavik with an included 1 night pre stay hotel is included in the package with Quark Expeditions. This gives you just enough time to explore the capital of Iceland by foot as the city is certainly compact enough to do so. The following day check out of your hotel and off to the ship we go, the excitement really does build as you see the stunning outline and style of ship which will be home for the next 9 nights. 

The onboard expedition team very quickly ensured we were all up to speed with the safety and before we knew it we were off, starting our crossing over the Denmark straight. This crossing is not to be underestimated, and it takes not much short of 48 hours before we are in our location for our first zodiac cruise of the trip. We have been kitted out with our included yellow Quark polar jacket which you can keep and they also loan you the mandatory mud boats.  

All down to deck 3 in our assigned groups when called to kit up and get ready before we set off. Finally, we're out in the freezing cold air for a 2 hour zodiac cruise to get up close to one of many glaciers in the region, we are here…..Northeast Greenland adventure truly begins. 

Northeast Greenland is the perfect destination to explore for those who have an interest in Geology, Ice age, Glaciers and history. 

The vast mountains and rock formations simply change at every turn making for very scenic cruising, the snow has just started to fall in September on the lower ground so all was picture perfect and felt fresh and clean too. 

The Quark expedition guides tell their stories and share history while we glide slowly and quietly around every little corner of the glacier bay, pulling a piece of glacier ice from the water for us all to hold and appreciate how old it could possibly be! 

Engines off, all are quiet to take in the Arctic air……popping, all you hear is popping!  The air in some of the glacier ice escapes creating the most amazing noise in the volumes of ice around us, that is a memory I will always hold as like nothing else I have ever heard and nature at its best. 

Back on board to warm up and a drink at the included bar, as standard they included house spirits, wine and lager as well as most sodas/juices too, premium brands are available if you prefer and charged to your onboard account. The staff very quickly address you by name giving a very personal service, they love to chat and hear our tales of the day. 

Every evening before dinner you gather in the main lounge for a recap of the day, reminders of what wildlife we may have seen. Also, and importantly a briefing of the following day.  An expedition cruise rarely has a specific set itinerary, which adds to the adventure.  Based on weather mainly, we are told the plan for the next day and at what time we are off again on our zodiacs.  With just over 100 guests on board we are split into 4 x coloured groups so when called for the zodiacs we do not all ascend to the ready room at the same time. 

 Dinner is then served in the main dining room. A buffet style for breakfast and lunch, with a la carte most evenings. Food was certainly varied and catered for all dietary needs which was great to see. I often had lunch in the smaller bistro on deck 8, a much smaller and more intimate venue but still with a varied lunch and waiter service for drinks. 

 No late nights on this trip as early starts, unless…..you get a wake-up call at 1am to hear these words:  “ We have Northern Lights, strong and clear on the port side”! 

This is a wake up call I would never get bored of as in total we saw Northern Lights 5 nights in the most amazing clear conditions.   Quickly wrap up warm, grab the camera and up to the observation deck we go. 

I will never forget for the very first time walking outside, looking up and there they were, bright green and dancing so bright in the sky…..The highlight of my trip without a doubt. 

Most days you have the option of two zodiac cruises, one being a walk/hike and the other a cruise around. Walking groups are split into 4 categories to cater for individual fitness levels which is great, I like to take my time having a walk with our guide, learning about the local flowers and wildlife etc.  

Layers of clothing now are essential as if the sun is out it can feel surprisingly warm when off the cold ice water. Either from a hike or a zodiac cruise you are always looking for wildlife. I saw Musk Ox and Arctic Hare for the first time, and from a distance a mother polar bear with a young bear by her side. 

Very strict guidelines are followed in these regions when wildlife is spotted, a respect that I appreciated and admired of what we were viewing. 

If you wanted to stay onboard it was the perfect time to use the warm pool or two hot tubs on the aft of the ship.  There was also a well-equipped gym and a small spa with a treatment room. The library on board is at the forward of the ship boasting a double floor open viewing window system so is very bright, including a coffee machine and plentiful cookies are available here too.  

The ship offers an option of staterooms and suites. I was in a veranda suite, deck 4 midship, perfect location for the crossing of the Denmark straight!  Larger suites on higher decks are available all with a veranda for outside space. The bathrooms are generous in size, walk in shower and a lovely heated floor too which is great when back in from the cold outside. Lots of storage space too which was refreshing to see.  

The excitement of an expedition cruise is the unknown.  You do know what you will see, the weather is unpredictable, and conditions are changeable but that is what it is all about. Feeling like a true explorer yourself and returning with your own tales to tell. 

It is a cruise experience so far removed from a traditional ocean cruise experience, but when you have done one I guarantee you will have the bug for another. 

The only question is…..where to next?